Category Archives: kashmir

Notes from a Kashmir trip: Part 3 – The Tulian trek

The Lidder is ice-cold. I dip my toe in the water, but instinctively retract it. I marvel at my colleague Sankalp and two Kashmiri friends who shed their clothes for a quick dunk in this burbling river at a campsite … Continue reading

Posted in baisaran, fencing, gulmarg, india, kashmir, lidder, pahalgam, ponies, sonamarg, travel, trek, trip, tulian | Leave a comment

Notes from a Kashmir trip: Part 2 – The German flag, Cupid, and Naseeruddin Shah

It seems hard to believe that just a few weeks ago, before the flash floods hit Kashmir, the Dal Lake in Srinagar was teeming with carefree tourists lounging in canopied shikaras. On a balmy August evening, boatman Bashir steered us … Continue reading

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Notes from a Kashmir trip: Part 1 – Srinagar, flatbread, and the Bengali connection

Some minutes before our aeroplane landed in Srinagar – Kashmir’s summer capital – disembodied voices floated to my ears from the seats behind me. A woman was addressing a girl of six or seven, perhaps her daughter, urging her to … Continue reading

Posted in Bengali, dal lake, india, kashmir, Krishna Vaishno Dhaba, shikara, srinagar, travel | Leave a comment